Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
